Prediction of Wave Transformation in the Kwangan Beach

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 2001;15(2):6-10.

광안해역에서의 파랑변형예측

박정철,김재중,김인철

동아대학교 토목해양공학부,동아대학교 토목해양공학부,동서대학교 건설공학부

Keywords: Wave-current model, Wave-model, Current field, Parabolic model, Kwangan beach

핵심용어: 파랑-흐름모델, 파랑모델, 흐름장, 포물형모델, 광안해역

Abstract

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.