A Simulation of Directional Irregular Waves at Chagui-Do Sea Area in Jeju Using the Boussinesq Wave Model

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 2007;21(1):7-17.

Ryu, Hwang-Jin;Shin, Seung-Ho;Hong, Key-Yong;Hong, Seok-Won;Kim, Do-Young;

Ocean Engineering Research Department, MOERI/KORDI;Ocean Engineering Research Department, MOERI/KORDI;Ocean Engineering Research Department, MOERI/KORDI;Ocean Engineering Research Department, MOERI/KORDI;Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineer

Boussinesq 모델을 이용한 제주 차귀도 해역의 다방향 불규칙파 시뮬레이션

류황진;신승호;홍기용;홍석원;김도영;

한국해양연구원 해양시스템기술연구본부;한국해양연구원 해양시스템기술연구본부;한국해양연구원 해양시스템기술연구본부;한국해양연구원 해양시스템기술연구본부;홍익대학교 조선해양공학과;

Keywords: Boussinesq wave model Boussinesq, Chagui-do sea area, Directional irregular wave, Wave power generation, Wave simulation

핵심용어: 파랑모델, 차귀도 해역, 다방향 불규칙파, 파력발전, 파랑모사

Abstract

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.