Study on Freak Wave Characteristics and Approximation of Wave Spectrum in Uljin Sea Area

doi:2012.26.2.8

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. > Volume 26(2); 2012 > Article

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 2012;26(2):8-13.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.5574/KSOE.2012.26.2.008

Ryu Hwang-Jin,Hong Sa-Young

Korea Ocean Engineering & Consultants CO. LTD.,Marine Structure & Plant Research Department MOERI/KORDI

울진해역의 Freak wave 특성과 스펙트럼 근사에 대한 연구

유황진,홍사영

(주)한국해양기술,한국해양연구원 해양구조물플랜트연구부

Keywords: Hs-Tz Scatter Diagram, Freak wave, Skewness, Atiltness, Kurtosis, Spectrum bandwidth parameter

핵심용어: 파고-주기 결합분포표, 파형의 상하 비대칭성, 파형의 전후 비대칭성, 빈도분포의 첨예도, 스펙트럼 대역폭

Abstract

This paper investigates the statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Uljin, which is located in the East Sea area of Korea. The wave data were measured using AWAC (Acoustic Wave and Current Meter), which was installed at a 16-m water depth from November 2010 to March 2011. The wave data acquisition rate, Hmax, monthly mean Hs, Tz, Tp, and wave direction are summarized. The distributions of Hs and Tz were analyzed using the Hs-Tz scatter diagrams. The measurement wave data were analyzed to investigate freak wave characteristics. By comparing the wave spectrum using the measurement wave data with the wave spectrum obtained by varying the JONSWAP wave spectrum, it was possible to approximate the wave spectrum shape at the Uljin Sea area.